One such store that I highly recommend is “Yandan Hanfu”. There are three layers of sleeves, the longer two being floor-length and peachy-pink, while the shorter one is pink-pink.The sleeve-less underbodice is a blue on blue floral and has an appliqued ruyi tou arabaseque (sacred fungus) that I learned about in my Beijing Opera Costumes book. In early Tang, one side of the garment was tucked into the skirt or the banbi, and the other end hung naturally over the shoulder. However, despite these complex regulations, the shenyi was still a basic form of garment which served the needs for all classes, from nobles to commoners, old to young, men to women; and people would therefore expressed their identities through recognizable objects, decorations, colours, and materials on their outer garments. As cited in the Liji, the shenyi is a long robe which is created when the “upper half is connected to the bottom half to cover the body fully”. The loose shenyi which wrapped around the body to back and lacked a front end slit and was designed for the upper classes of society, especially for women, who wanted to avoid exposing their body parts when walking. The first type, who also tend to be the most active within the Hanfu core circle, use it to reconnect with a traditional lifestyle and care a great deal about whether their Hanfu is historically accurate.
That is rather disproved by the very words of government officials themselves who have regularly insulted the movement. In the late Tang and Five Dynasties, it became fashionable to loop the ceremonial silk from behind and then have it drape over the arm, requiring a pibo with a length of about five meters or more. This style could be achieved using a shorter length of ceremonial silk. The ceremonial silk is also frequently seen in depictions of deities and immortals. Given fabric prices, especially for high-quality materials like silk which can range from $10 to $100 per yard, efficient use can lead to substantial savings. Decorative patterns can be made using various methods, such as embroidery, dyeing, or printing. The Western Zhou dynasty had strict rules and regulations which regulated the daily attire of its citizen based on their social status; these regulations also governed the material, shape, sizes, colours, and decorative patterns of their garments. However, in the Shang and Western Zhou dynasties, people prominently wore a set of attire called yichang, qipao wedding dress which consisted of a jacket called yi and a long skirt called chang.
The shenyi was also introduced in both Goryeo and Japan, where it exerted influences on Confucian clothing attire in Korea and Japan. 260 From the Spring and Autumn period to the Han dynasty, the loose shenyi with wide sleeves was fashionable amongst the members of the royal families, the aristocrats, and the elites. 13-14 The shenyi later gradually declined in popularity around the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern dynasties period. Following the Han dynasty, the shenyi lost popularity in the succeeding dynasties until it was revived again the Song dynasty. Traditional Japanese clothing has garnered fascination in the Western world as a representation of a different culture; first gaining popularity in the 1860s, Japonisme saw traditional clothing – some produced exclusively for export and differing in construction from the clothes worn by Japanese people everyday – exported to the West, where it soon became a popular item of clothing for artists and fashion designers. It was particularly popular during the Sui and Tang Dynasty, where the silk pibo can be found both in the Western regions of Dunhuang and Turpan and the central region of Chang’an, reflecting the vibrant silk trade during that time.
The term shenyi (Chinese: 深衣) is composed of two Chinese characters《深》which can be translated as ‘deep’ and《衣》which literally means ‘clothing’ in the broad sense. By the Han dynasty, the shenyi had evolved into two types of robes: the qujupao (Chinese: 曲裾袍) and the zhijupao (Chinese: 直裾袍). Combined, the term shenyi literally means “deep clothing”. 16 The preoccupation of the elites with layered, loose-fitting clothing also displayed their desire to distance themselves from the labourers, signalling their high status. Wearing it without the appropriate status could invite severe consequences. 255 The shenyi was also shaped by the Zhou dynasty’s hierarchical system based on social class, gender, age, and the situation. The shenyi was then developed in Zhou dynasty with a complete system of attire, being shaped by the Zhou dynasty’s strict hierarchical system in terms of social levels, gender, age, and situation and was used as a basic form of clothing.
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